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Practical

Practical articles

The first article in this section covers the two most common everyday clothing failures: a button that has come off and a seam that has split along the stitching. Both jobs take a quarter of an hour once you know the steps, and neither needs a sewing machine. Below you will find what to prepare, how to work step by step and how to check your work before wearing the garment again.

A good repair is almost invisible. Matching thread, stitches hidden in the old line of stitching and a neat finish on the wrong side — that is the whole secret, and it takes no special dexterity.

— Editor's thought

What to prepare

  • Thread matching the fabric; stronger thread for buttons on coats and jackets
  • A couple of hand-sewing needles of different thicknesses and a thimble for heavy fabrics
  • Small, sharp scissors for thread
  • Pins to hold the edges of the seam together before you start
  • A matchstick or toothpick to leave a gap under the button
  • A well-lit table and a fabric offcut for test stitches
  1. Inspect the garment

    Find every spot that needs mending and look at how the button was originally sewn on or the seam stitched. The old holes will show you where to guide the needle, and any leftover bits of thread are best removed carefully.

    Illustrative example: one button has come off a shirt, and the one next to it is hanging by a couple of threads. Reinforcing it now is easier than hunting for it later.

  2. Choose thread and needle

    The thread should match the fabric or be slightly darker, and the needle should pass through the material easily without leaving large holes. Cut a length of about an arm's length: thread that is too long tangles and frays.

    Illustrative example: a thin needle struggles through heavy denim and bends. With a thicker needle and a thimble, the work goes noticeably faster.

  3. Secure the thread at the start

    Tie a knot at the end of the thread or make two or three tiny stitches in one spot on the wrong side. The start must hold firmly, otherwise all the work will unravel under the first strain.

    Illustrative example: the knot was too small and slipped through a loosely woven fabric. A double knot or a few securing stitches solved the problem.

  4. Sew on the button with a shank

    Lay a matchstick or toothpick on the button and sew over it, passing the thread through the holes several times. Then remove the matchstick, wind the thread around the stitches under the button and bring the needle to the wrong side. The shank leaves room for the fabric around the buttonhole.

    Illustrative example: a button sewn flat against the fabric barely fits through the buttonhole and pulls the cloth. With a shank of a couple of millimetres, it fastens freely.

  5. Prepare the split seam

    Turn the garment inside out, line up the edges along the old stitching and pin them together. Follow the old needle holes: if the new seam strays away from them, the piece will twist.

    Illustrative example: the side seam on a pair of trousers has split. Lining the edges up exactly with the remains of the stitching made the repair straight and invisible from the outside.

  6. Sew the seam with small stitches

    Start a centimetre before the split, catching an intact part of the stitching, and finish a centimetre after it. Make close, even backstitches: they are stronger than a simple running or tacking stitch and hold up well under strain.

    Illustrative example: the seam was sewn only where it had split, and a week later it opened up right next to the repair. With some overlap at each end, that does not happen.

  7. Secure and hide the end

    Make a few stitches in one spot on the wrong side, pass the needle under them and trim the thread neatly, leaving a very short tail. Extra knots on the outside look untidy and catch on things.

    Illustrative example: the thread was cut right next to a single stitch and slipped out. With two or three securing stitches, the end holds reliably.

  8. Check the result

    Put the garment on or pull the seam gently in different directions. The button should not wobble, and the fabric along the seam should not pucker. If something is off, redo it straight away while all the movements are fresh in your mind.

    Illustrative example: after the repair, the seam pulled the fabric slightly. It was unpicked and resewn with less thread tension, and the puckering disappeared.

Where people most often go wrong

  • Using a thread that is too long and tangles into knots
  • Sewing the button flat against the fabric with no shank
  • Closing only the hole itself without catching intact stitching at each end
  • Pulling stitches too tight so that the fabric puckers
  • Using whatever thread is to hand instead of one that matches the fabric
  • Working in the evening in poor light with the garment held in mid-air
  • Cutting the thread straight after the last stitch without securing it

If this does not work

  • If the fabric around the button is torn, first reinforce the spot with a small patch on the wrong side
  • If the seam is on knitted jersey, use stretch stitches or put the repair off until you are familiar with a sewing machine
  • If the garment is complicated or precious to you, it makes sense to take it to a tailor and watch how a professional works

Check before you start

  • The thread matches the fabric and is no longer than an arm
  • The needle passes through the fabric without effort
  • The start of the thread is secured with a knot or stitches
  • There is a shank under the button
  • The new seam follows the old stitching with overlap at each end
  • The stitches are even and do not pucker the fabric
  • The end of the thread is secured on the wrong side
  • Needles and pins are put away in their box

Catalogue of practical articles

This catalogue collects standalone practical articles written in English for English-speaking readers. Each one tackles a single task: mending something, making a craft or setting up a safe place to work.

Coming soon

  • A first scarf in garter stitch
  • Darning a hole in a wool sock
  • An autumn leaf garland for the window
  • A craft table that is safe for children

Catalogue rules

  • Articles in this catalogue are written separately for each language version and are not translations.
  • Some articles link to third-party websites, including gaming services; we do not control their content, prices or terms.
  • We do not publish advertising for materials, tools or shops, rankings, prices or reviews.
  • For beginners

    How to choose a first weekend project, put together a minimal kit and finish the work.

  • Questions

    Short answers about first steps, materials, tools and crafting with children.

  • Common mistakes

    Five slip-ups that make beginners give up on crafts, and simple ways around them.

What this text is based on

  • Beginner guides to sewing (general principles)
  • Instructions for craft tools and materials (general principles)

Threads, yarn, glue and paints vary noticeably from one manufacturer to another, so the label and instructions for the specific material or tool always have the final say. This guide describes general techniques and is no substitute for a hands-on lesson with an experienced maker.